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Official Name: Republic of South Africa.
Passport/Visa Requirements: Citizens of Australia, Canada and the U.S. need passports. A visa is required for citizens of those countries if in South Africa on a lengthy business trip. Passports only are required of U.K. citizens. Reconfirm travel documentation requirements with your carrier before departure.
Capital: Pretoria (administrative) and Cape Town (legislative) both serve as government seats.
Population: 43,421,021.
Languages: Afrikaans, English, Zulu, others.
Predominant Religions: Christian, Animist.
Time Zone: 2 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (+2 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is not observed.
Voltage Requirements: 220 volts.
Telephone Codes: 27, country code; 21, city code for Cape Town; 11, city code for Johannesburg; 12, city code for Pretoria.
Augrabies Falls National Park
Called the Place of Great Noise, these stunning waterfalls (185 ft/55 m high) are located near the Namibian border. The natural beauty is ripe for photography as the Orange River plunges into a narrow canyon. For a truly breathtaking experience, try a walk across the footbridge. The park has some wildlife and hiking, notably the three-day Klipspringer trail. 390 mi/625 km north of Cape Town.
Bloemfontein
Located in the Free State, the country's judicial capital has historic buildings, beautiful parks and an interesting zoo (where else can you find a "liger" - a cross between an African lion and a Bengal tigress). The obelisk of the National Women's Memorial, 120 ft/36 m high, recalls the 26,000 Afrikaans women and children who died in concentration camps during the Anglo-Boer War. There is also a war museum nearby. The National Afrikaans Literary Museum, First
Raadsaal (the old town council) and National Botanical Garden are the town's other important sights. 230 mi/375 km southwest of Johannesburg.
Cape Town
The first thing everyone notices is beautiful Table Mountain, a flat-topped stone behemoth that rises above the town, dwarfing even the tallest skyscrapers in the business district. But don't spend too much time gazing at the view: There's more to the city than its picture-postcard profile.
Since the end of apartheid, Cape Town has led South Africa in developing new attractions to appeal to visitors. Those efforts, along with a post-apartheid vitality, have made Cape Town an increasingly popular destination for travelers. Among its newer attractions are the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront (a shoppertainment complex), and a variety of trendy restaurants and nightclubs. Even more important are the city's history and culture, encapsulated these days in
distinctive neighborhoods like the Bo-Kaap or on Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned. In fact, it's Cape Town's mix of nationalities and identities - African, European, Asian - and the lifestyle they've created that make it a memorable place.
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Durban
Capital of KwaZulu-Natal and an exciting city on the Indian Ocean, Durban has wide beaches, excellent surfing and a strong Indian flavor. It is well worth a three-night visit. Plan to walk along the waterfront Golden Mile (it's actually about 4 mi/6 km) to see - among other amusements - the Snake Park and Seaworld. While in town, ride in a rickshaw, enjoy the restaurants (particularly Indian ones), stroll through the botanical garden and stop by Durban's city
hall, which contains both natural-history and art museums. If you're interested in learning about the country's apartheid era, stop in at the Kwa-Muhle Museum. Some of South Africa's incredible diversity can be sampled at the Jumah Mosque (largest in the Southern Hemisphere), Hindu temples (there are two that can be visited) and the African Arts Centre (fabulous collection of Zulu items for sale). Shoppers will also enjoy the Victoria Street Market as well as
numerous artisan galleries.
The many beach towns stretching to the north and south of Durban are great places to relax. Also north of the city is the Valley of a Thousand Hills, a spectacular landscape. Within the area is Phezulu, a re-created Zulu village where traditional dances are performed and high-quality crafts are for sale.
About 110 mi/175 km northeast of the city lie two of the oldest wildlife sanctuaries on the continent, Hluhluwe and Umfolozi. These game reserves are home to white and black rhinos, big cats and a colorful assortment of birds. (Allow at least two days to add this side trip.) About the same distance to the northwest, the Royal Natal National Park features high mountains that form a natural amphitheater through which the Tugela River cascades
2,800 ft/850 m in a three-step fall. 295 mi/475 km southeast of Johannesburg.
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East London
This coastal city has a wonderful natural-history museum, with excellent anthropological displays, the only known Dodo egg and a stuffed coelacanth (a fish thought to have been extinct for more than 70 million years - until one was netted near East London in 1938). While in town, also see the Gately House Museum. Lovely Victorian buildings in the city center, nice beaches (popular with surfers) and a zoo round out the city. 470 mi/760 km south of Johannesburg.
Garden Route
Technically, this scenic road - known for its beautiful wildflowers, forests and mountainous coastline - runs along the coast from Mossel Bay to the Storms River. However, we find the entire drive from Cape Town to Port Elizabeth to be spectacular. It takes three days to drive, but five days would be much better so you can stop and smell the roses.
Begin in Cape Town and overnight at Mossel Bay, where Portuguese explorer Dias landed in 1488. Mossel Bay, despite being a rather unappealing town, has the famous Post Office Tree, where sailors left letters hanging in a boot to be picked up by those headed toward the country of the addressee. The second day, drive to Oudtshoorn, overnight there and tour it in the morning, then drive to George for the next overnight. While in George, see the town
museum.
The next day, stop at Wilderness National Park on your way to the artist colony of Knysna. Stop in at some of the craft shops and galleries, then spend at least an hour exploring in one of the nearby state forests. Plan to overnight in Plettenberg Bay. At the turn of the 20th century, timber firms desecrated the area's luxuriant forests of indigenous hardwoods: Only a few areas remain untouched.
The following day, stop at Tsitsikamma National Park for its nature trails, giant trees and caves. Along the route are several hiking paths that require from one to seven days. There's good diving, snorkeling and fishing in the area, as well as seal colonies along the coast. Although its not an attractive town, Jeffrey's Bay has one of the world's best surfing beaches - it was one of the locations for the '60s surf-film classic Endless Summer.
If time permits, visit Robberg Nature Reserve (great bird watching) and Goukamma Nature Reserve (beautiful landscape).
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Golden Gate Highlands National Park
Between Durban and Johannesburg, this park has antelope and lots of birds, including the rare bearded vulture and bald ibis. But the main attraction is the scenery: beautiful, multicolored sandstone cliffs. Caves in the sandstone rocks have well-preserved San paintings. Also within the park is the Basotho cultural village, where you can learn about traditional music, food (and beer), handicrafts and more. Plan an overnight in the park. 165 mi/265 km south of
Johannesburg.
Graaff-Reinet
This pretty, historic town is worth a half-day's visit. The architecture is quite attractive. Be sure to see the Reinet House and the Residency. The Reinet Museum is interesting for its large-scale reproductions of San paintings. The town is practically surrounded by the Karoo Nature Reserve, best known for the Valley of Desolation, a dramatic gorge. To the east, between Graaff-Reinet and Cradock, is Mountain Zebra National Park, famous for
its rare namesake. 360 mi/580 km northeast of Cape Town.
Johannesburg
Often called Jo'burg, Johannesburg is the country's largest city. It's very modern by African standards, but crime is a problem - you'll be reminded over and over that you shouldn't walk downtown after business hours, that you shouldn't carry a purse, etc.
Sights in Jo'burg include the Museum Africa, which offers an honest and self-critical look at the nation's sometimes troubled past, and the Market Theater Complex, which houses theaters and a Saturday flea market. Negotiate with a taxi driver to give you an impromptu tour through Jo'burg's best neighborhoods - you'll see some large and impressive mansions hidden behind imposing security (home security is big business in South Africa).
Yeoville is a funky, integrated neighborhood that has replaced the former hip nightspot of Hillbrow, which has deteriorated in recent years. History buffs will be interested in the Smuts Library at the racially integrated University of the Witwatersrand (Wits University), where South African statesman Jan Smuts' book collection is preserved. The university's Gubbins Library has an extensive collection of books on Africa. Also consider visiting Oriental Plaza, a
center for the ethnic Indian population. The city is also filled with art-deco buildings (while no Miami Beach, Jo'burg is trying to spruce them up a bit).
Tours are easily arranged in Johannesburg for those interested in visiting the black suburb of Soweto (the name is an abbreviation of Southwestern Townships). The tours begin with the ultramodern township hospital and continue through all types of neighborhoods, ranging from shanty towns and worker's hostels to the modern home of Nelson Mandela (he lived there for only a short while upon his release from prison). The tour also includes Mandela's earlier
and more humble home, where he lived when he was arrested more than 30 years ago.
Excursions include a half-day trip to see the fossils at Sterkfontein Caves (a half-hour drive from town, this World Heritage Site takes several hours to tour). Gold Reef City (the old Johannesburg Gold Mine) is more like a theme park than a mine tour: It features a museum, rides on a vintage steam train and African tribal dancers (it's a day in itself). There are several working gold mines to visit near Johannesburg: the tourist office can help make
arrangements.
There are also several game reserves and breeding stations within a half-day drive, such as the De Wildt Cheetah and Wildlife Centre and Thaba Pitsi Nature Reserve. If you're going to be in Johannesburg on a Sunday, consider a visit to the Heia Safari Ranch, 24 mi/38 km from town, where tribal dancers perform - it provides a good introduction to the country if Johannesburg is your first stop. An alternative is South Ndebele Village, a fascinating open-air museum
focusing on the Botshabelo tribe. 775 mi/1,250 km northeast of Cape Town.
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Karoo National Park
This national park is located near the town of Beaufort West. Heading into the Karoo, you pass through a landscape of rusty windmills and sheep the color of old corn. Vast plains of stunted bushes disappear into a horizon of jagged peaks. It's hard to believe grassland once covered the region. The only road signs warn drivers to beware of baboons. We thought we must have strayed onto a military road, so rarely did we see another vehicle. Wildlife in the
park includes cape mountain zebras, various antelope species, black rhino, tortoises and more than 150 species of birds (including the black eagle). If you want to stretch your legs, you'll find a couple of short, paved trails to follow. 250 mi/400 km northeast of Cape Town.
Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
This unique park requires at least three or four days (it's nearly a day's drive each way from Johannesburg). It offers the opportunity to see various antelopes, cheetahs, bat-eared foxes, leopards and the famous black-maned Kalahari lions. More than 200 species of birds have been identified as well, including kori bustards (the largest bird that flies) and lots of raptors. The landscape is an unforgettable mix of thornbush and red sand dunes. The park is shared
with Botswana (the South African portion used to be called the Kalahari Gemsbok National Park) and lies on the border of Namibia. Of the three rest camps within South Africa, Twee Rivieren is the most accessible. 455 mi/735 km west of Johannesburg.
Kimberley
The best way to see the town of Kimberley is to fly in from Johannesburg in the morning, tour the mines, then board the Blue Train to Cape Town that night (you must buy tickets months in advance if you're traveling in high season). It's easier to get tickets for the not-so-grand, but not-so-exorbitantly-expensive, Trans-Karoo train. In Kimberley, take the tram from city hall to the Mine Museum. Allow at least two hours at the museum to see the mine called the Big
Hole, examples of rough-to-finished diamonds and original mining-town buildings. The Big Hole has produced more than 14,500,000 carats of diamonds in its working life (the museum displays a rock that even Liz Taylor would envy: a 616-carat uncut diamond). If time permits, visit the McGregor Museum for its excellent natural-history exhibits and San artifacts. Tours of De Beers' Bultfontein Mine - a working diamond mine - are available from the mine's visitors
center (if you want to go below the surface, call ahead: 053-842-1321). 505 mi/815 km northeast of Cape Town.
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Kruger National Park
This park is unquestionably one of the world's great wildlife reserves. Kruger has the "big five" animals - rhino, buffalo, lion, leopard and elephant - as well as plenty of others. An untouched wilderness of scrubland broken by acacia and mopane trees, its waterholes and riverbeds are home to more than 500 varieties of birds and nearly 140 species of mammals. Make reservations as early as possible, especially if you're visiting during high season or over a
holiday. Scattered through this gigantic park are 18 rest camps, which range from basic camping sites to luxury lodges. Something we love about Kruger is that hikers can trek (with rangers) on wilderness trails (one to five days in length - advance reservations are strongly recommended, as these treks are very popular).
Adjacent to Kruger is Sabi Sand Game Reserve, which is actually made up of a handful of smaller reserves. One of these is Sabi Sabi. Its lodges are both informal and very good (they're on a river near a water hole and provide excellent animal viewing). At Sabi Sabi you can also partake in a ranger training experience to learn the basics of game management, tracking and spoor identification, off-road driving, bush survival and orienteering.
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Mala Mala, another private reserve on Kruger's border, has lodges that have been ranked among the best in the country. The first, named after the reserve, is deluxe, exclusive and on the formal side (though coat and tie are not needed). Kirkman's Camp is smaller, much less expensive and has a more informal feel. Harry's Huts, as the name implies, is even more informal, appealing to the young (very casual, no fuss made).
Londolozi Reserve also offers luxurious accommodations: In ascending order of luxury, they are the thatched chalets in the Main Camp, the more secluded Bush Camp (stone chalets that blend into the scenery) and ultra-luxurious Tree camp (chalets suspended 75 ft/22 m aboveground). Whichever you choose, stay at least two nights (to allow for weather problems and to see as many animals as possible).
Timbavati, yet another reserve on the park's borderlands, offers a chance to see rare white lions. The reserve offers a choice of lodges, including M'Bali, a deluxe property featuring tree house-type accommodations.
In the nearby scenic Drakensberg Mountains, there are interesting San paintings in caves and rock shelters (if you're planning to see them, add at least two nights). Also nearby is Blyde River Canyon Nature Reserve, about 18 mi/30 km west of Kruger National Park. Its highlight is one of the great natural wonders of South Africa: a canyon 1,970 ft/600 m deep. Kruger is 205 mi/330 km northeast of Johannesburg.
Oudtshoorn
There are some 150,000 ostriches in the world, and 120,000 of them live around Oudtshoorn, a dusty town on the edge of the Little Karoo plain. They wander the stony farms, scratching a minimal diet from the harsh desert scrub. Be sure to visit a farm (at some, you can even ride an ostrich!), then head to the C. P. Nel Museum to learn about the history of the trade, which flourished in the days when ostrich feathers were a popular accessory. Plumes, once de
rigueur for ladies' evening wear, are still sent all over the world.
There's also a nice suspension bridge over the Grobbelaar River. Be sure to go 20 mi/30 km north from Oudtshoorn to take a tour of the spectacular Cango Caves. While somewhat overrun with tourists, the caverns are acclaimed as the most beautiful calcite in the world (and we won't dispute that). While in the area, also visit the Cango Crocodile Ranch and Cheetahland. 210 mi/340 km east of Cape Town.
Port Elizabeth
At the eastern end of the Garden Route, P. E. (as it's commonly called) is an industrial city fringed with excellent beaches. Allow most of a day to take the Apple Express steam train to see the scenic landscape north of town, Fort Frederick (built in 1799) and Settler's Park. Along the Humewood Beach waterfront is a complex that includes museums, an oceanarium and a snake park. It makes a nice refuge if you're in town on an all-too-common blustery day. Addo
Elephant National Park (about an hour's drive north) has Eastern Cape elephants, black rhinos and other animals. Most visitors will find two nights in P. E. sufficient. 400 mi/650 km east of Cape Town.
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Pretoria
The country's administrative capital, Pretoria is less than an hour's drive from Johannesburg. Important sights include the Paul Kruger House (so precisely furnished that you'd think the former president still lived there) and the historical Melrose House (for its antiques). Also noteworthy are the National Cultural History Museum (especially its African Window facility), the South African Mint (collection of world coins) and the Voortrekker Monument,
commemorating the battle of Blood River, where the Voortrekkers routed the Zulus. The monument is surrounded by a laager (defensive circle or encampment) of 64 life-size ox wagons. The National Zoological Gardens is one of the largest in the world with more than 3,500 animal species (the adjoining aquarium is outstanding, too). The city's gardens, parks and jacaranda-tree-lined streets (ablaze with color in October) are unforgettable.
Another must-see is the Premier Diamond Mine in Cullinan, 20 mi/30 km east of town, where the world's largest diamond was found. Tours of this diamond mine are available. A few miles north of Hammanskraal is a colorful papatso (market place) known for Ndebele paintings - well worth a half-day visit. If you're staying longer, take the 45-minute drive out to the De Wildt Cheetah and Wildlife Centre. Tours are available every Tuesday, Thursday,
Saturday and Sunday (advance reservations are recommended). The facility can be seen from Johannesburg, as well. 30 mi/45 km northeast of Johannesburg.
Sun City
Sun City is South Africa's answer to Las Vegas. Casinos abound, but the resort's most outrageous sight is Lost City, an enormous complex that includes a water park. Statues of gazelles leap from towers crowned with palm fronds, while pools, stone bridges, wave ponds, mock ruins and artificial grottos fill the grounds. There's a golf course, too. Nearby, Pilansberg National Park covers 200 sq mi/500 sq km of extinct volcanic craters. Wildlife includes
cheetah, giraffes and many varieties of birds. 80 mi/125 km northwest of Johannesburg.
Umtata
Umtata is a rough town. It does have some appeal, however: restaurants that serve fantastic oysters and crayfish, good craft and pottery centers and museums dedicated to Nelson Mandela (he was born in the nearby village of Qunu). Native Xhosa in the area wear distinctive red blankets, and the entire region is known for expansive beaches, excellent hiking trails and a varied landscape, including mountains. 370 mi/600 km south of Johannesburg.
Wilderness National Park
As environmental awareness grew in the late 1970s, the South African government came under intense pressure to protect the country's natural scenery. By 1983, it had created the National Lake Area around the Wilderness wetlands, along the southern coast east of Mossel Bay. Now a 30-mi/50-km strip of glistening vlei (lake), river and marsh, sandwiched between the Indian Ocean and the Outeniqua Mountains, Wilderness National Park is a diverse collection of
habitats from hardwood rain forests to the reeds and rushes of lagoons and the scrub grasses of dune barriers. It is also home to a motley crew of artists and naturalists. 235 mi/380 km east of Cape Town.
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The climate is mild throughout South Africa. There's really not a bad time to visit, but October is our favorite month - it's spring then, an ideal season for touring. Snow is a possibility June-August in the mountain areas. It generally rains in the afternoon during the summer (November-February) everywhere in the country except in the Cape Province, where it rains during the winter.
Durban has a very moderate climate, with swimming possible year-round. November-February is best for Cape Town. During the rest of the year, it's usually quite cool, often rainy/windy/foggy and too cold to lie on the beach. Johannesburg, at 5,700 ft/1,735 m above sea level, can be quite cool in the winter.
Those who go to South Africa specifically for animal viewing may want to go during winter - grass is short, and the animals tend to gather around watering holes.
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For centuries, South Africa's history was plagued by racial conflicts. Dutch settlers in Cape Town established control over the southern tip of South Africa about 300 years ago by driving out the Khoikhoi (also known as Hottentots) and San (Bushmen), two peaceful tribes of lower Africa. The Dutch settlers continued to enlarge their territory, which led to clashes with the settled Xhosa tribe in the late 1700s. More complications were added in the 1800s, when
the British Empire was given control of the colony by the Treaty of Vienna. To escape British control, white Afrikaners (mainly descendants of the first Dutch settlers) migrated northward in what is called the Great Trek, coming into contact with the Zulu tribes, who were coming from the east. A series of wars broke out, ending in the defeat of the Zulus at Blood River. In 1878, the British also fought the Zulus and defeated them the following year. With the
Zulus out of the way, the British and the Afrikaners were free to have a go at each other in the South African War, which lasted from 1899 until 1902 with the defeat of the Afrikaners. Eight years later, the British and Boer lands were united to form the present-day South Africa.
Beginning about the turn of the 20th century, more and more legislation was passed restricting the rights of nonwhites. The laws of apartheid - or separation of races - reached their peak under the Afrikaner National Party, which came to power in 1948. Blacks responded by forming the Communist-backed African National Congress, which was dedicated to ending apartheid. Continued violence, diplomatic isolation and economic boycotts forced the white government to
make some concessions in the 1980s, but the apartheid laws were not scrapped until 1991, when blacks were allowed to vote in the country's first democratic elections. Nelson Mandela was then elected president on a platform of addressing South Africa's huge disparity of wealth. Progress continues under his successor, but those goals remain some way off.
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South African cuisine, or Cape cuisine as it's called, is a blend of Dutch, French, German and Malay flavors typically applied to lamb, beef or seafood. In the local restaurants, try bredie (braised and stewed mutton and vegetables), saltwater crayfish (like lobsters, but without the claws) and bobotie (a curried meat dish). Braai is a South African barbecue usually featuring a spicy sausage called boerewors. You'll find many
Chinese, French, Portuguese and Indian restaurants as well. The private game reserves often serve wild game in their restaurants (gazelle and wild boar are good, though the latter can be tough). South African wines are both excellent and inexpensive.
Tipping
Tip taxi drivers about 10%, and give a small tip to hotel porters. In restaurants, tip 10%-20% if a service charge has not been added to the bill.
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Do take an organized tour of a black township, either in Johannesburg, Cape Town or Durban. Instead of hostility, we have encountered friendliness and openness in the townships. We played soccer with children in the street while mothers called out playful greetings from their doorways.
Do try to visit a shebeen (bar) in one of the black townships during a tour. Under apartheid, blacks were forbidden to sell alcohol: Many risked imprisonment by running these speakeasies.
Don't become so worried about crime that you forget to enjoy the country. It's easy to fall into the habit of worrying so much that the real pleasures of the country and its inhabitants pass you by.
Do try to see a play by South African playwright Athol Fugard (Master Harold...and the Boys, A Lesson From Aloes, etc.).
Do visit a Zulu or other ethnic village to see the incredible traditional dancing.
Don't be afraid to ask about security when making hotel reservations and when checking into your hotel. Some Johannesburg hotels now require that everyone - including guests - who enters be asked for identification.
Do tour a working gold mine.
Don't swim at any beach where others aren't swimming. Sharks cruise the waters, and some beaches aren't protected by shark nets.
Do take a coat and tie. Some restaurants require them during the evening.
Don't forget to pack a flashlight. It'll come in handy in the game reserves.
Do ask hotel staff to get you into one of the diamond-cutting works in Johannesburg.
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The value of the rand against most foreign currencies makes South Africa one of the most inexpensive sources of African souvenirs. Semiprecious stones, gold and diamonds are very reasonable, and the best prices are usually found in Cape Town and Johannesburg. Beadwork, wood carvings, baskets and woven rugs are some of the most popular handicrafts available. And don't be surprised if you come across traditional crafts made from nontraditional resources (like a
basket woven with wire instead of reed). South Africa is a great place to buy art from all over Africa. While you might pay a bit more, the quality will be high and shipping will be much easier than elsewhere on the continent.
Shopping Hours: Generally Monday-Friday 8:30 am-5 pm, Saturday 8:30 am-1 pm. Some shops, mainly those in shopping centers, are open Sunday.
Banking Hours: Generally Monday-Friday 8:30 am-3:30 pm, Saturday 8 am-11:30 pm.
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Toll Free 1-866-301-5389 |
The hottest tourist attraction in South Africa these days is Robben Island, where former-president Nelson Mandela spent almost 20 years as a political prisoner, quarrying lime with pick and shovel. But the transformation of dreaded prison to tour destination is only part of South Africa's astonishing evolution from pariah state to modern statehood - a process
that has been accompanied by painful setbacks as well as exhilarating victories. 
